It has become a tradition: Me and my sister Martina on the night train to the north, with backpacks full of tents, liquor kitchen, food and other essentials. The first time we hiked from Abisko to Nikkaluokta, the second summer it was the Kungsleden from Kvikkjokk to Saltoluokta, the third time we went to Ritsem for the Treparksmötet – and now we are sitting here (July 31, 2021) for the fourth time on our way up. Martina has unpacked the milk chocolate and dispenses the prosecco into our plastic cups. Choosing your own train compartment has its advantages.
In total, we will hike 63 km in 3 days along the Jämtlandsleden, from Storulvån to Ramundberget. We have chosen the trail for two reasons: 1) Jämtland is closer than Lapland, which we previously hiked in, and 2) the hike is mostly on Calffjäll, which means less mosquitoes.
Stage 1: Storulvån mountain station to Sylarna mountain station, 16 km
It doesn’t start right off as some sunshine story. The clouds hang heavy already over Storulvån’s mountain station where the hike begins, and about halfway to Sylarna’s mountain station the gates of heaven open. But sober as we now consider ourselves, we have booked dinner at the next mountain station, the one at Sylarna, so when the rain runs down my cheeks, I escape to slow cooking and charcuterie in my imagination.
Already after only an hour or so on the Jämtlandsleden, we have seen more reindeer than we saw during our three hikes in the Lapland mountains (where we didn’t see a single one). They look at us curiously from a distance, wiggle their spreading antlers a little. Sylarna’s mountain station is a more buoyant variant and even if we are camping, we pay extra to use the drying cabinet and shower. Dinner is far from free, but what does that matter when you get to eat with the mountain massif right outside the window.
Stage 2: Sylarna mountain station to Helags mountain station, 19 km
We make morning coffee in the mountain station’s kitchen and eat soft cheese sandwiches with a view of the mountains. The hike starts with beautiful views and even more reindeer. We walk along the Sylälven and then through a pass between Kläppen and Herrklumpen. Lunch consists of naan bread, ready rice mix, beer sausage and vacuum-packed olives.
19 kilometers later we reach Helag’s mountain station. A mountain station I have half-assed memories of from a class trip here in the first year of high school when we woke up in a snowstorm. I had borrowed my father’s tent from the 70s, which was torn apart almost immediately, the water ran down my face from the tent fabric that came loose and I remember how I counted the seconds until I would be allowed to go inside and warm up in the mountain hut. That it didn’t (or Dad’s 70s-style backpack with a steel frame for men’s backs) put me off mountain hiking forever is a wonder.
Well. As soon as we settle down on Helag’s terrace with a beer each, it starts to blow. Maybe it’s always windy at Helags? It goes quickly and soon we realize that we have to run to get the tent up before the rainy weather is upon us. Finding a windless spot takes time, but once we do, we are full-blooded professionals. We know exactly what to do, it’s a bit like a dance. In just a few minutes we are in our sleeping bags with woolen underwear on. Or juste, the dinner. It can be polar cake with soft cheese, pre-sliced mozzarella and dotted sausage in a horizontal position.
Stage 3: Helag mountain station to Svaletjakke rest shelter, 20 km
It takes us almost an hour before we find our trail. It would probably go faster if we just asked the host, but that’s pride. Once we find the right one, a hike begins in Hobbit -Nangijala-Sound-of-music-land. You get it. There are small flowers, blue mountains, rippling streams and sun on speed. Simply fabulous. All the time with the dramatic Pulpit on the right. Rumbling thunder rumbles in the background, but what does that matter when the valley is green and close and we’re scurrying on light legs down the path.
Then it turns. The rain is coming. The thunder is coming. It goes uphill. We walk and walk with the Fältjägarstugan, placed as if on a pedestal on its mountain, as an enticing final destination – or at least an hour’s rest. Once there, we are stopped by the host. Halt, the cabin is full. Yes hope. No, there is no roof under which you can sit outdoors either. We have lunch in the pouring rain some distance away, grumble about inhumane cabin rules and then hike an uphill that never wants to end. But eventually it ends, like everything in life. We have reached the Svaletjakke rest shelter, the sun is back and we are taking this year’s dip in an ice-cold pond. Here we are all by ourselves with only the secrets of the mountains around us.
Stage 4: Svaletjakke resting shelter to Ramundberget, 8 km
The last stage is short, 8 kilometres, and it’s lucky because it largely goes downhill. The hike begins in veils of mist that creep between the bare trunks of the mini-birches, then becomes increasingly lush, almost like a rainforest. With heavy packing, the slope is finally felt in the knees, so it is with relief that we finally reach horizontal ground in Ramundberget. We are many hours early for our bus home, and since nothing but a grocery store is open, we sit on a wooden bench in the sun while waiting for the bus.
We evaluate the hike. Observes that the mountains in Jämtland are at least as dramatic as those in Lapland. That it’s bad with calf scales because we escaped the mosquito hordes. That we would like to see some new mountains. Perhaps…
…The Dolomites in Italy! Which it turned out to be this summer, 2022. More about it will come soon – until then, you can read my report in the travel magazine Vagabond, no. 7, 2022. Do you have any hiking planned for next summer? Feel free to inspire! 👇
