December in Iceland isn’t for the faint-hearted. The sun generously clocks in for about five hours, the wind could slap you in whichever direction it chooses, and the roads can swing from dreamy white ribbons to ice rinks in minutes.
But if you’re up for a bit of adventure, there’s nothing quite like driving across this (often frozen) winter wonderland. Frozen waterfalls, snow-dusted volcanoes, and the Northern Lights flashing above, all from the warmth of your own vehicle (hint hint).
The question is, can you actually handle it? Absolutely. With the right wheels, a bit of common sense, and a nose for adventure, December driving in Iceland is as safe as it is spectacular.
Can You Actually Drive in Iceland in December?
Yes, and people do it every day. Iceland’s roads remain open to locals, tourists, and the occasional wandering reindeer throughout winter. However, there are important guidelines to keep in mind. Some rental companies limit access to particular routes during the colder months, especially the highland F-roads (mountain roads) which officially close from October to June due to heavy snow and limited maintenance.
Sticking to the Ring Road is the smartest option for most drivers in December, as it is regularly ploughed, signposted, and patrolled. It connects many of Iceland’s major sights while offering the best balance between adventure and safety.
The key to driving safely lies in the vehicle you choose. Always opt for a winter-ready vehicle, preferably a sturdy 4×4 or a properly equipped campervan built for icy conditions. Our fleet is designed for this very purpose, with studded tyres for traction, powerful heating systems, and reliable insulation.
Each camper also includes essential gear like snow scrapers, extra blankets, and emergency equipment to ensure a safe, comfortable journey no matter what Iceland’s winter throws your way (and it likes to keep us all guessing).
What Are Iceland’s Roads Like in December?
In short, Iceland’s winter roads are unpredictable and demand respect (Ali G style). The Ring Road, the main road circling the island, is generally well maintained, ploughed regularly, and passable most of the time thanks to diligent road crews who work around the clock (or at least very regularly, let’s not give them too much credit).
Conditions can vary dramatically within a single hour as temperatures drop or winds pick up. Visibility can vanish in snow flurries, and ice can form without warning in shaded or coastal stretches.
Once you venture away from this main artery, conditions become much more challenging. Side roads, rural tracks, and access routes to some waterfalls and viewpoints can quickly fill with snow or become slick with ice. This is why locals check the weather several times a day and treat forecasts almost like breaking news, as it genuinely dictates travel plans in winter (and sometimes in summer, too).
Ring Road in Winter
The Ring Road (Route 1) generally stays open throughout the year, with only rare closures during severe storms. Road crews monitor and clear the route daily, but conditions can shift quickly.
Drivers should expect icy stretches, slushy patches after snow, and occasional wind gusts strong enough to demand both hands on the wheel (but you were already doing that now, weren’t you?)
Visibility can drop rapidly in sudden squalls, so always check the latest updates on Road.is before setting off. When the weather calms and the clouds break, the views are extraordinary: snow-topped mountains, black lava plains, and all the epic natural sights you’ve read (and I’ve written) about stretching into the horizon.
Taking your time and maintaining a steady, cautious pace not only keeps you safe but also lets you truly appreciate the surreal beauty of Iceland’s winter landscape which is very much a different country.
Westfjords and Highlands in December
This is where conditions become truly demanding. The Westfjords remain technically open through winter, but deep snow, steep inclines, and narrow coastal roads that cling to cliffs make driving here a serious test of skill (my palms get sweatier than an Eminem song).
Snowploughs do operate, but service can be delayed for hours or even days after major storms. Drivers who venture here should have genuine winter driving experience, a 4×4 vehicle, and a full understanding of emergency procedures, including how to manage when visibility suddenly disappears in blowing snow. The scenery, while magnificent, comes with real risk in December.
The Highlands, by contrast, are entirely off-limits. F-roads are officially closed until summer, buried beneath several metres of snow and impassable due to unmaintained tracks and dangerous river crossings. Even locals avoid attempting these routes in winter because rescue operations are difficult and costly. It’s best to admire the Highlands from afar and plan a return visit in the warmer months when they reopen safely for your next Iceland adventure.
Essential Winter Driving Tips for Iceland
Winter driving in Iceland is about preparation, patience, and knowing when to call it a day. It involves understanding how the weather, road conditions, and daylight hours interact and how to adapt to them.
Checking the latest updates before every journey, carrying emergency supplies, and allowing plenty of extra time between destinations are all essential parts of the experience. Drivers should also familiarise themselves with local rules such as headlight requirements (they should always be on no matter the season) and speed limits, learn to recognise black ice, and practice cautious braking and steering on slippery surfaces.
The goal is not just to reach your next stop but to do so safely and confidently while enjoying the stunning scenery along the way. Leave the Vin Disel driving for Fast & Furious 125 (asusming they just finished movie number 124).
Tyres, Traction and Tools
All vehicles are required by law to use winter tyres between November and mid-April, ensuring that every driver is equipped for icy and snowy conditions. Most local rental companies fit studded tyres, which provide outstanding grip on frozen roads and significantly improve control on steep or slippery surfaces.
Before setting off, always inspect your vehicle to confirm that it has all the necessary winter gear, including a snow scraper, ice shovel (a big plus but not essential), and reflective vest.
These items might feel excessive at first, but in Iceland’s unpredictable weather, preparation is your best companion. With the right tools and a cautious approach, even the iciest roads become manageable and safe to navigate (and I’m sure you can pull off the reflective vest look like a legend).
Mastering the Weather (Without Losing Your Mind)
The weather in Iceland can change with astonishing speed (like Storm from the X-Men), often shifting from calm sunshine to howling wind and blowing snow within minutes. Travellers should make a habit of checking conditions several times each day (in case I haven’t written that enough yet), especially before setting out on any longer journey.
The most reliable sources for updates are SafeTravel.is for safety alerts and Road.is for road conditions and closures. The Icelandic Meteorological Office also issues weather warnings ranging from yellow to red levels, each indicating increasing severity (a bit of a nightmare if you’re colourblind).
When such warnings are announced, it is crucial to postpone travel until conditions improve. Even locals prefer to stay indoors when the wind reaches dangerous speeds, as visibility can disappear in seconds and road ice can form instantly, as well as the notorious white outs. Understanding how quickly things can change and planning accordingly is one of the most important lessons of driving in Iceland during December, and winter in general.
Planning Your Driving Times
Daylight in December is extremely limited, averaging only about four to five hours per day, which means planning becomes crucial. Start your drives early in the morning to make the most of available light and avoid being caught on icy roads after dark where possible.
Keep your itineraries realistic, with shorter driving distances and scheduled breaks for meals, rest, and sightseeing within daylight hours (it’s a bit of a drag staring at what should be a glacier in the dark). This helps ensure that you can enjoy Iceland’s stunning winter scenery safely, from its glacial lagoons to its volcanic landscapes.
Photographers should plan key stops around midday when the sun sits low on the horizon, casting that soft golden glow perfect for capturing Iceland’s natural beauty. Travelling at a relaxed pace not only keeps you safer but also allows you to fully appreciate the unique calm and quiet of an Icelandic winter day, which on a clear morning can often create the most spectacular crimson skies.
Campervan Travel in December: Comfort Meets Caution
A campervan might sound like madness in midwinter, but trust us, it’s one of the best ways to see Iceland this time of year. Modern vans, like those from Happy Campers, are insulated, heated, and surprisingly cosy.
You can pull over when visibility drops or stop overnight in safe, designated campsites. Plus, no icy hotel car parks to wrestle with. Just park, pop the kettle on, and let the wind sing you to sleep (it might have the unsubtle knack of waking you up for an aurora sighting as well).
Where to Go in December: Safe and Stunning Routes
Winter travel doesn’t mean you’re limited to Reykjavík and the nearest hot tub. Some of Iceland’s most iconic sights are perfectly accessible in December. I’ll be honest, they are the most visited routes, but that is genuinely for good reason (not just because I write about them).
The Golden Circle
The Golden Circle is a short yet spectacular loop from Reykjavík that showcases some of Iceland’s most famous natural landmarks, including Þingvellir National Park, the Geysir geothermal area, and Gullfoss waterfall.
Each stop offers an entirely different slice of Iceland’s volcanic and glacial beauty, from the tectonic rift at Þingvellir to the roaring power of the titanous waterfall of Gullfoss. Roads along this route are regularly ploughed, clearly signposted, and typically in excellent condition throughout winter, making it the perfect option for travellers who are new to driving in Icelandic conditions (a great way to build your confidence from the start).
There are numerous rest stops and service areas along the way, giving drivers plenty of opportunities to warm up, grab supplies, or simply take in the lightly frosted landscapes.
For an even richer experience, visitors can stop at Laugarvatn Fontana for a geothermal bath or Kerið crater to admire its snow-framed caldera (bring some ice skates and you can tick off a bucket list item at the bottom).
South Coast Highlights
The South Coast is one of Iceland’s most picturesque routes, particularly in winter when its waterfalls and black sand beaches are draped in frost and snow.
The journey takes you from the thunderous Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss waterfalls to the dramatic coastline of Vík and the unique glacier lagoons near Jökulsárlón and Fjallsárlón.
Each stop offers something different, from the chance to walk behind a frozen cascade to standing on volcanic beaches where icy waves crash against basalt columns. Road conditions along this stretch are usually manageable but can change suddenly, especially near coastal areas where strong winds and drifting snow are common.
It is important to check local forecasts regularly, slow down on icy sections (especially the one-way metal bridges), and plan for extra time to explore. Despite its challenges, the South Coast rewards careful drivers with views so extraordinary you’ll constantly be looking for a layby.
Snæfellsnes Peninsula
Often nicknamed “Iceland in Miniature,” the Snæfellsnes Peninsula packs nearly every type of Icelandic landscape into one compact region (hence the name). Here you will find sweeping lava fields, glacial peaks, dramatic sea cliffs, black sand beaches, and charming fishing villages (I’m told they’re called hamlets) all within a few hours’ drive of Reykjavík.
During winter, the area feels wonderfully remote, with snow covering the coastal cliffs and the mighty Snæfellsjökull glacier dominating the skyline (known as the inspiration for Jules Verne’s classic, Journey to the Centre of the Earth).
Roads can be icy or windy, particularly near the western tip, so a 4×4 vehicle is strongly recommended. The extra traction allows you to explore safely while still reaching beautiful spots like the cliffs of Arnarstapi, the lava formations of Lóndrangar, and the tranquil fishing village of Stykkishólmur.
Kirkjufell, Iceland’s most photographed mountain (yes, the one from Game of Thrones), looks even more striking beneath its layer of winter snow, and the nearby Kirkjufellsfoss waterfall adds the perfect touch to a classic Icelandic panorama, which at this time of year becomes some kind of giant slushee. Plan a full day here to truly enjoy the peninsula’s variety and carry warm food, water, and spare layers as weather changes quickly in this region.
North Iceland in Winter
The north of Iceland offers fewer crowds and a more authentic winter atmosphere, providing a glimpse into local life during the colder months. Akureyri, Iceland’s second-largest city, remains vibrant year-round with cosy cafés, excellent restaurants, and easy access to nearby ski slopes and hot springs.
Just a short drive away lies Lake Mývatn, known for its geothermal activity, steaming vents, and the soothing Mývatn Nature Baths where travellers can soak while surrounded by snow-covered lava fields in one of Iceland’s older volcanic active regions.
The nearby Goðafoss waterfall (the favourite of the lady of my house) is another must-see, its cascades often encased in ice, creating an ethereal blue-white spectacle that photographers adore, and the origin story that gave it’s name ‘The waterfall of the Gods’ is equally enticing.
Snowfall is generally heavier in this region compared to the south, but the main roads are kept clear and well maintained throughout winter. Drivers should still be prepared for sudden snow squalls and reduced visibility, especially on mountain passes between Akureyri and Mývatn.
Those who take their time will be rewarded with some of Iceland’s most dramatic winter scenery and excellent chances to witness the Northern Lights, which frequently dance across the dark, crisp skies of the north, synonymously known as one of the best aurora chasing regions.
Chasing the Northern Lights from the Road
Driving in December offers travellers an unrivalled opportunity to witness one of nature’s most awe-inspiring spectacles, the Aurora Borealis. With Iceland’s long, dark nights and crisp, clear air, the conditions are perfect for viewing this mesmerising natural light display.
The Northern Lights appear as shimmering ribbons or sweeping curtains of green, pink, yellow, red, blue, and violet light that dance across the Arctic sky, often visible from quiet country roads far from artificial light.
For many visitors, this experience is the highlight of their trip, and the freedom of travelling by campervan makes it easy to chase clear skies and find secluded viewing spots. Watching the aurora flicker above snow-covered mountains or reflect on a frozen lake (or even calm ocean ends at the base of fjords) is something few ever forget, turning a winter drive through Iceland into a truly magical adventure. I’ve witnessed it thousands of times and it never fails to bring out the childlike emotions of adventure.
When and Where to See the Lights
The long, dark nights of December create the ideal conditions for Northern Lights hunting, with extended hours of darkness and crisp, clear air that enhances visibility.
Some of the best locations to see the Aurora include Þingvellir National Park, where the lights often reflect in the icy waters of the rift valley (Silfra’s clear waters are the best, in my opinion), the dramatic black sand beaches near Vík (just stay away from the water, please), and the snow-covered fields around Lake Mývatn in the north.
Other good viewing spots include the Snæfellsnes Peninsula and remote stretches of the Ring Road where light pollution is minimal. Ok, I’ll be honest, when you see the Northern Lights you honestly won’t care where you are, but it’s much better away from city lights.
The key to a successful Aurora chase is patience and clear skies (and luck, lots of luck). The Northern Lights are a natural phenomenon, and while forecasts can indicate the likelihood of activity, there is never a guarantee of a show.
Use the Aurora forecast on Vedur.is to track cloud cover and geomagnetic activity. For the best experience, park your campervan in a safe, dark location away from artificial lights, switch off your engine, and give your eyes time to adjust to the darkness. With a bit of luck, you’ll witness the sky come alive with ribbons of colour dancing above the Icelandic winter landscape.
Not every Aurora has the intensity to set the full sky ablaze, some often start as very pale bands. But, if the Kp is predicted to be over 3, you have a great chance of some periods of the incredible spectacles you see shared online (genuinely).
Driving Smart While Aurora Hunting
Always keep safety as your top priority when chasing the Northern Lights by car. Avoid distractions and never attempt to watch the aurora while driving (been there, not good).
Instead, find a safe lay-by, parking area, or designated campsite away from the main road, turn off your headlights, and make sure your vehicle is securely parked before you settle in to watch.
Bring a warm drink, extra blankets, and perhaps a tripod for your DSLR if you want to capture photographs of the display. Allow your eyes to adjust fully to the darkness, and remember to switch off any interior lights to preserve your night vision.
From the warmth of your campervan rental, you can relax and enjoy the spectacle in comfort, far from the cold and crowded viewpoints. It is an unforgettable way to experience one of Iceland’s most magical natural wonders. My fingers are already crossed for you.
Winter Safety Resources You Should Bookmark
For live updates, bookmark:
Final Thoughts: Embrace the Challenge, Respect the Roads
Driving in Iceland in December is one of the most rewarding ways to experience the country’s raw beauty as it should be seen. Yes, it’s cold, windy, and sometimes downright unpredictable, but that’s half the fun. Pretty much everything in life would be boring if it was all predictable (other than Liverpool FC winning every game).
Take it slow, check the forecasts, and treat every day as its own little adventure. And if you’re ready to take on Iceland’s icy charm with a warm bed on wheels, book your winter-ready campervan and start your story on the open road.
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