Paid collaboration with Visit Värmland
“What can you actually do in Värmland in autumn?”, wondered my inner skeptic. Plenty it would turn out! Me and Annika from Resfredag took the car west to a county teeming with local food artisans and inventive entrepreneurs. Join us on an alpaca walk, construction tour of an old power plant and a swim in Queen Kristina’s bathhouse – to name just a few of the things you can do in Värmland during the off-season!
“Värmlann is a landscape
between Sverg and Nôrg
where many have laughed to death say
and many have died in sorrow.”Gunnar Ehne. The quote can be found on the facade of Värmland’s museum.
10 experiences and activities in Värmland – which also work in low season:
1. Local art at Hammarö Art Gallery
Hammarö is the headland south of Karlstad that spreads out into Lake Vänern. In addition to the artist Lars Lerin living here, the place also acts as the starting point for the Klarälvsbanan – a 90 kilometer cycle path that runs in the old railway embankment from Lake Vänern up through Värmland’s forests (and which I am very keen on cycling).
Since six months, you can fill up the inspiration depot at Hammarö Art Gallery. The small art gallery is located in the same building as Coop and exhibits artists from Värmland. In addition to four permanent artists, the exhibition hall is visited by a new one every month.
Tip: The sister gallery Karlstad Art Gallery is located inside Karlstad for those who want to experience even more local Värmland art.
2. Lars Lerin’s museum Sandgrund
A visit to Lars Lerin’s museum Sandgrund in Karlstad is almost a requirement during a Värmland road trip. Our guide Karin is an old drawing teacher and has known Lars Lerin for many years. For help, she has her husband (“my assistant” as Karin puts it) who is also an artist. We get to know most about both drawing techniques and exciting Lerina anecdotes.
At the far end of the museum is a small cafe where we drink tea from beautiful cups selected by Lars Lerin’s husband Junior. I’m buying his latest book, a children’s book about a crow that looks absolutely fantastic. Karin writes down her address on a business card, “come by and say hello”. It’s hard not to already love Värmland!
Tip: Those who are hungry for more museums should trudge over to Värmland’s museum, which is located directly opposite, having been tipped off that the restaurant there should be particularly nice!
Wanted:
Crow flew away
native of Lillolastugan, Sunnemo
Sounds like the name LottaSo begins Crow Summer by Lars Lerin.
3. Stroll in Karlstad
Perhaps you have heard the expression “sunning in Karlstá”? Eva Lisa Holtz was an innkeeper who began to be called “Sola” simply because she always had such a sunny mood. Strolling in Karlstad is, in other words, a history of sunshine and a visit to the statue “Sola i Karlstad” is a tip.
Along the Solapromenaden are beautiful wooden villas and in one of them a large and fine antique shop: Kleynes. There was a lot for a travel fan, bought himself a book about Italy based on the SVT series Solens mat.
Tip: The Wermland opera, which is both nice to watch and has many concerts. I myself have been to a concert there when my father played a few years ago.
4. Stay at Hotell Drott in Karlstad
We check in at Hotell Drott, a Clarion Collection hotel right next to Karlstad’s railway station. I like the hotels that are part of the Clarions Collections concept because they always have that little something extra. My room has a small balcony with a view of the station building – but otherwise it is above all the hotel restaurant that stands out here!
The cozy Drott bar serves tapas dishes and delicious drinks. We are served an eight-course “sharing menu” where one is tastier than the other – the favorites are moose carpaccio, the Vietnamese broccoli and some delicious vegan dumplings. The menu should be booked in advance!
Tip: The drinks look amazing and the non-alcoholic drink gets 10 out of 10 points from Annika who doesn’t drink alcohol and thus (in my opinion) is an expert on the subject to be trusted!
5. Hike with alpacas at Karlstad Alpacagård
Nina thought about what she would do when she retired and decided that alpacas would be fun. So she bought four. That was a year ago, since then Karlstad Alpacagård – as she now calls herself – has had thousands of visitors.
You can come here for hiking, coffee or yoga with alpacas. But Nina is careful about the animal husbandry – only one walk a day for the highly sensitive animals. We put halters on Tarocca, Tamja, Kolan and Kakan (“a real drama queen”) and wander off. Hiking with an alpaca is very similar to hiking with a llama – they are both camels, and extremely sensitive to their surroundings. It goes in slow motion. Rushing an alpaca is impossible.
Tip: Alpaca wool is the warmest wool, and it also never gets sticky. Bought both scarf and mittens from Nina – luckily she also has an online store!
6. Gourmet food at Almar’s restaurant
On an old parsonage about a quarter of an hour by car from Karlstad is Almar’s farm with a tavern, farm shop and interior design shop. Almar’s pub has been mentioned countless times in the White Guide and we are served a luxury lunch that I won’t soon forget – and certainly did not expect when I got out of the car “in the middle of nowhere”.
Robin, who prepares the food, serves three dishes, the highlight of which is lasagna on beef cheek ragu that has been cooked for two days and is so tender that it just melts in your mouth – and a sauce on burnt cream that gives a caramel-like taste. For dessert, a rosehip ice cream topped with, among other things, skrädmjölsdröm (skrädmjölsdröm is a Värmland specialty) and honey from the neighbor’s farm.
Tip: Next to the tavern is the Skafferiet farm shop, which sells everything from caramels to ceramics. In principle, everything is locally produced. Lina, who runs the shop, tells us that they also organize various events where you can light candles, tie a wreath, sharpen a knife, or just wander around the area. Anyone who wants to have a big party should book into the party floor up in the loft!
7. Visit the Old Power Station art gallery in Deje
The old power station in Deje is, just as the name reveals, a former power station next to the Klarälven. The power station supplied the surrounding area with electricity until 1992 when the building was to be demolished. Luckily, some Deje residents managed to save the house – which today houses an art gallery that also just won the tourism award of the year in Värmland!
The important thing, says Linn, who co-founded the art gallery and who was also named the Warm Jacket of the Year 2021, is to find a mix of different expressions – photography, painting, sculptures, abstract, performance, etc. In addition, they don’t just want to offer something to look at, but also let visitors create themselves. The industrial interior, enormous ceiling height and the remaining details from the power plant are an experience in themselves!
Tip: Konsthallen’s Culinarum Café is listed in the White Guide and has full rights. “You can have your punch for the pea soup or schnapps for the herring, if you like.” In addition, most of it is made with organic and locally grown ingredients!
8. Bathe in Queen Kristina’s bathhouse at Ulvsby manor
My biggest vice in life is taking a bath. I bathe almost every day, there are few places I feel as relaxed as in a hot bath. So you can imagine my joy when we check in at Ulvsby manor in Sunne and open the door to Queen Kristina’s bathhouse. A room filled with copper bathtubs facing a panoramic window overlooking Lake Fryken and Selma Lagerlöfs Mårbacka on the other side.
Annika and I each take a scoop of bath salts and sink into each tub in silence, until the skin is completely wrinkled and I realize that my water is cold. Luckily, there are two saunas to warm up in!
Tip: I live in Selma’s suite and yes, of course, that is THE Selma that is being referred to. In her book Gösta Berling’s saga, she writes about Ulvsby as “Länsmansgården”. So if you’re a Selma fan, take the book with you and book yourself into this particular room!
9. Visit the artists’ home at Sahlströmsgården
Sahlströmsgården is an old family farm from the beginning of the 19th century, which during the early 20th century increasingly became a cultural gathering place. It was the three siblings Anna, Ida and Brother Sahlström who were all artists and who invited artists to the place. The Parade House today acts as a museum and is like an art trip back in time. Wasn’t decorating much more homely in the past? I immediately want to replace “white and fresh” with sculptures and large works of art with heavy wooden frames in gold.
The farm today also houses a hotel and a restaurant in which we eat a good lunch buffet. A tip both as an excursion destination during the day but also for those who want to sleep over.
Tip: Don’t miss the shop that sells lots of local handicrafts but also home-woven curtains and rugs of your own design!
10. Go cross-country skiing in Torsby ski tunnel
Me: I haven’t gone cross-country skiing since I was twelve.
Annika: Cross-country skis? What is it?
Already there, we establish my lack of prior knowledge when it comes to cross-country skiing. In other words, a visit to Torsby ski tunnel is done on shaky legs. Even more thrilling when Torsby ski gymnasium has training sessions at the exact same time.
Well, we get a real cross-country skiing pro, Rasmus Blom as our guide and the tunnel – which is a 1.3 km long indoor tunnel with ski tracks – spares us all headwinds. I’d be exaggerating if I said I quit like a pro, but definitely got a kick out of actually testing this winter. Because surely it looks harmonious to slide along in silence through a snow-soaked forest?!
Did you fancy a heat test (Värmland + holiday)?
Please tell us in the comment field! And if you have more tips on things to do in Värmland during the low season – please share!
The post is a paid advertising collaboration with Visit Värmland. All words, opinions and images are, as always, here at Fantasiresor solely my own.
